Facebook Twitter Pinterest The novel, and the HBO series, follows Basque families whose lives are almost destroyed by Eta’s violence. Photograph: David Herranz/HBO EspanaAramburu’s novel, translated into English as Homeland and adapted as an HBO series that begins this Sunday, aims to go some way towards redressing the balance. Over the course of 642 pages, it follows two Basque families whose lives and relationships are fractured and almost destroyed by Eta’s violence and its legacy.
It has given me great pleasure over the past decade to see the rehabilitation of offal, not only on smart restaurant menus but, even more thrillingly, in the repertoire of home cooks. Many have thrown off squeamish timidity and embraced true nose-to-tail eating with gusto. Or even with guts.
Summertime in San Sebastián rekindled the annual debate about the strains created by excessive tourism. This year, though, residents of the Basque provincial capital have also had to put up with our city being turned into the latest Woody Allen film set. The movie, Rifkin’s Festival, is about a couple who fall in love while in town for the San Sebastián film festival, drawing on the annual event (this year’s begins on 20 September) as the backdrop to a romantic comedy.
“I was very upset about the victims and very angry that a group of people organised themselves and took up arms to force their project on others – and that that was applauded by a part of society,” he said.
Rifkin’s Festival was backed by Spanish media giant Mediapro (which has participated in Allen films including Vicky Cristina Barcelona and Midnight in Paris) as Allen has become increasingly shunned in the US after Farrow’s allegations against him, which he denies. Publication of his memoir Apropos of Nothing was cancelled by Hachette after staff protests, and it was rapidly picked up by another publisher, Arcade. Film-maker Spike Lee issued an apology after defending Allen in a radio interview, writing on social media “My words were WRONG.”
How tourism is killing Barcelona – a photo essay Read moreProtests against mass tourism first erupted during the summer of 2017 and the movement keeps growing. These spontaneous demonstrations by people claiming the right to inhabit the city have helped broaden social awareness of the issue. This has in turn spurred the authorities to take action, with, for teclado mecanico tfue example, a tourist tax proposal, implicitly accepting that overtourism is a real problem for the city.
To make the sauce, finely chop the herbs and put in a bowl with the capers, anchovies and garlic. Add the mustard, seasoning and vinegar, toss, then add enough oil to loosen the mix to a spoonable consistency.
Starring Elena Anaya, Louis Garrel and Gina Gershon, Rifkin’s Festival was shot in and around the city in 2019, and according to the plot synopsis takes place during the festival itself. “It tells the story of a married American couple who go to the San Sebastián festival and get caught up in the magic of the event, the beauty and charm of the city and the fantasy of movies. She has an affair with a brilliant French movie director, and he falls in love with a beautiful Spanish woman who lives there.”
Facebook Twitter Pinterest ‘The old town is the epicentre of tourist activity in San Sebastián, so anyone who lives near it is basically living in a theme park.’ People outside a bar in San Sebastián. Photograph: Alamy Stock PhotoLocal people are increasingly showing their dissatisfaction at increased rents and the expansion of the vacation rental market over regular housing. Ordinary shops are being replaced by handicrafts and souvenir stores, fancy bars and the like. The old town is the epicentre of tourist activity in San Sebastián, so anyone who lives near it is basically living in a theme park with the all the crowds, pollution and noise that brings.
The decision provoked anger and a threatened boycott from those who were angered by the suggestion of any moral equivalence between Eta’s atrocities and the Spanish state’s response – which included the use of paramilitary death squads.
The writer, who was born in San Sebastián but has lived in Germany since the mid-1980s, initially wondered what another book could say about 40 years of bloodshed. And besides, he told the Guardian, “bad books can come out of good sentiments; in fact, that’s something that happens quite often”.
Durbin leads me through the spindly, sleeping trees, pointing out different kinds of branch and bush, and their uses. According to him, the wood is a shop that will give you everything you need. “Willow bark can be boiled to relieve a headache,” he says. “Yew is for making long bows. Oak is for shelters. Ash is for tool handles. Have you ever had a beech-leaf sandwich?” I don’t bother replying.
Cheeks, too, when cooked with care, have a very special grain and yielding succulence. Pig’s cheeks are traditionally turned into Bath chaps – brined, slow-cooked until tender and served as a cold cut – but today’s recipe uses fresh cheeks, which are becoming a more regular feature at good butchers’ and farmers’ markets.